The Ancient Tradition of Leather Tanning in Tuscany
Tuscan vegetable-tanned leather, also known under the Italian name pelle conciata al vegetale in Toscana, is a material steeped in tradition, craftsmanship, and quality. The historical roots of leather tanning in Tuscany can be traced all the way back to the Etruscan civilization, but the real breakthrough came in the Middle Ages through the influence of the Republic of Pisa.
In the 1200s, leather processing expanded greatly in Pisa, which at the time was a centre for commerce and maritime trade. The state had access to many raw materials through its merchants who had close connections with ports in with Spain, Sicily and Sardinia.
When Pisa became annexed by the Florentine Republic in the early 1400s, the Florentine nobility saw potential in the Pisan leather industries, which they invested in and moved to Florence. As leather tanning took place mainly in a specific area of the city, you find curious street names such as Via dei Conciatori which translates to Tanner’s Street and hearkens back to this period in history.
Over time, a larger area developed along the river Arno that flows between Florence and Pisa where artisans specialised in the processing of leather. This region is today known as the Tuscan tannery district and produces some of the world’s finest vegetable-tanned leathers.
Almost one hundred thousand people live in the tannery district, of which ten thousand work with leather processing at one of the hundreds of tanneries which have kept the ancient tradition of vegetable tanning alive for generations. Around 30% of all Italian leather originates in Tuscany.
If you’re looking for leather with a quality stamp, you’ll find it in the tanneries that make up the Genuine Italian Vegetable-Tanned Leather Consortium. Founded in 1994 by a small group of Tuscan tanners, it now consists of 19 tanneries who all share a passion for the craftsmanship involved in the slow process of vegetable tanning.
We use leather from four of them in our watch straps: Conceria Il Ponte, Conceria Walpier, Conceria Puccini Attilio, and Badalassi Carlo. There’s something special about owning a product that has been made using methods passed down for hundreds of years. The time, care, and expertise that go into vegetable tanning result in leather with depth, character, and a unique story.
One of our watch straps made from Badalassi Carlo’s famous Pueblo leather.
Unlike chrome-tanned leather, which can be produced quickly and cheaply, vegetable-tanned leather requires patience—hides are immersed in tannin baths for months. This slow process allows the leather to absorb the tannins fully, creating a durable, high-quality material that develops a beautiful patina over time.
Keeping traditional tanning alive is also important for the environment. The leather industry has a notorious reputation for pollution, largely due to the use of potentially harmful chemicals like chromium salts in modern tanning processes. In contrast, vegetable tanning relies on natural tannins, which are not only biodegradable but also non-toxic. By choosing vegetable-tanned leather from Tuscany, you are supporting a more sustainable approach to leather production with a much smaller environmental footprint.
Many of the tanneries that produce this leather are small, family-run businesses that have been part of their local communities for generations. In keeping these traditional practices alive, the tanneries are also supporting the local economy and preserving a way of life that is deeply rooted in Tuscan culture.
When you buy Tuscan leather, you’re not only buying a product that will last for years, but you’re also helping to keep alive a craft that has been part of Italy’s cultural heritage for centuries. And in today’s fast-paced, disposable world, where mass production has largely taken over, that is indeed a rare and valuable thing.